The date was June 3, 1950. After months of preparation, planning, hiking, scouting and countless other tasks the French expedition team to Annapurna (26,200 ft.), led by Maurice Herzog, reached the summit of an 8000+ meter peak for the first time in the history of mankind. The First to the top was Herzog himself, followed closely by his climbing partner Louis Lachenal. Although they were able to reach the summit they were forced to pay the pricet. Herzog's decision to opt for lighter boots, and the loss of his gloves near the summit allowed frostbite to set in quickly, resulting in extensive amputations on both hands and both feet. So what drove these men to risk both life and limb for a mountain? National Pride, of course! The French were falling behind in the mountain climbing game. Other nations were sending well supplied, well funded expeditions to the Himalayas at the same time with the purpose of scouting new routes and attempting to climb them. What makes the French expedition to Annapurna special is not only the fact that it was the first 8000+ meter peak climbed, it was also the first that was scouted and climbed entirely in one climbing season, a feat not easily repeated, especially in the golden era of mountaineering. For a full account of the expedition check out "Annapurna" written by Maurice Herzog himself. Not only is it fascinating reading, it also contains pictures taken during the expedition.
Herzog, M (1952). Annapurna, first conquest of an 8000-meter peak. New York: Dutton.
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