They year was 1954 and for the first time in the history of Himalayan 8000 meter peaks there were two expeditions on the same mountain at the same time vying for position to be the team to nab the first ascent of Cho Oyu (26,906 feet) the Turquoise. The mountain was named for the huge faces of snow and ice which would glow with a turquoise sheen in the right lighting. Lying approximately 18 miles west of Mount Everest, this mountain had been scouted and used as a training ground for Everest expeditions with names such as Sir Edmund Hillary climbing her slopes in order to prepare for the higher peaks yet never reaching the top of their training mountain. So it was in 1954 that an Austrian expedition led by Herbert Tichy took up the challenge of climbing the worlds 6th highest peak. They, as previously stated, were not the only ones though. A joint team of Swiss and French mountaineers were also working up the mountain alongside Tichy's team. So what set these two expeditions apart? The simple answer is climbing style. The Swiss-French team was using techniques that were classic examples of those used during the time period. Heavy loads, many camps, excessive amounts of gear and plenty of logistical support in the form of porters and Sherpas. This method had worked fine as there had never been competition for a peak like there was for Cho Oyu. The Austrian team, perhaps without even knowing, gave themselves a great advantage. There were a only 3 climbers and 3 Sherpas. What this did for the team was force them to go light, leave what they didn't need, and not waste great deals of time ferrying loads from low camps to high camps. It was, in fact, the beginnings of alpine style climbing, although not in the purest sense as we often see it today. They did set up camps above where they were staying and moved up to them. This served to their advantage, however, when they were able to make a minimal amount of trips between their camps. Tichy did suffer for his efforts though. He was cold, tired, frostbitten, and yet he continued on through sheer moral and physical effort. In the post-monsoon climbing season, on October 19, 1954, The Austrian team was the first to reach the summit of the Turquoise Goddess. There may be some contention to this fact, however. Cho Oyu has a very unique feature at the summit. There is a very large, very flat snowfield with one particular rock that is approximately six feet above the rest of the snow field. Did they find rock and stand atop it? Being experienced Austrian alpinists it is believed they would have noticed this and completed a true summit, but even to this day mountaineers will miss the extra six feet and claim a summit that may not rightfully be theirs.
Of even greater interest is the more recent history of Cho Oyu. This mountain, due to its less than technical qualities (it is often climbed completely unroped) it has become a favorite peak for climbers seeking the 8000 meter experience without all of the 8000 meter danger. Altitude becomes the only enemy rather than avalanches, technical climbing, and steep and exposed sections. Cho Oyu could easily be labeled a walk in the park for many climbers of the world. It is this quality that has attracted a new type of climber to the Himalayan peaks as well. Ski mountaineers, those who climb to the top of mountains to ski down them, have found a special place with Cho Oyu. It's long and wide chutes provide an amazing opportunity for longer ski runs although it has been said that the snow is very sub-par, often crusted, pocked, and very windblown with a pretty high potential for small avalanches.
Cho Oyu. (n.d.). In Wikipedia. Retrieved May 4, 2010 from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cho_Oyu
Facts about Cho Oyu. (October 2009). Retrieved May 4, 2010, from Peak Promotions website: http://www.peakpromotionnepal.com/expedition/cho_oyu_2010.php
Cho Oyu: by Favor of the Gods. (n.d.). Retrieved May 4, 2010, from Chessler Books website: http://www.chesslerbooks.com/item/3875-cho-oyu-by-favor-of-the-gods-herbert-tichy-1957-1st-uk-edition-no-dj.asp
Cho Oyu: Tibet's Turquoise Goddess (n.d.) Retrieved May 4, 2010, from American Alpine Institute website: http://www.aai.cc/cho_oyu_article/
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